There is no product that can quite compare to jamón, as Spanish jamón has a characteristic flavor and aroma. The curing and maturation process gives this product organoleptic qualities that distinguish it from other cured foods, as the processes that occur during its production only happen over long maturation periods.
Not all jamones taste the same. And we’re not just talking about the differences between serrano jamón, Teruel jamón, or Iberian jamón —even within the same category and batch, no two jamones are identical. Every jamón is unique because, even when processed in the same way as others, it comes from different animals with specific and unique characteristics.
However, there is something all jamones have in common: their intense cured flavor, the balance of saltiness, and the sweetness of the fat. Something extra appears when pigs are fed on cereal-rich feed or freely roam in the dehesa, consuming pasture and natural resources. But they also share a flavor that, while not inherent to the slice we’re about to eat, becomes apparent if the jamón is not consumed in optimal conditions—the rancid taste.
What is the Rancid Taste?
According to the Royal Spanish Academy (RAE), “rancid” is an adjective referring to “a food, especially one that is fatty, that has lost its good flavor due to the passage of time.”
In the case of jamón, the rancid taste originates in the exterior fat, the part exposed to the air. The oxidation of this outer fat yellows the fat and imparts that unpleasant taste, which can ruin the pleasure of enjoying our jamón. That’s why we say that, while present in the product, it is not a flavor inherent to the jamón itself. Our jamón should taste cured, with a balance of salt and hints of cereal or nuts—but never rancid.
How Can We Eliminate That Flavor?
If the jamón is in optimal condition, the answer is quite simple: we just need to remove the yellow fat and the lard that usually covers the lean part of the piece.
Cleaning the jamón is essential when it comes to consuming it. If you purchase a whole piece, the ideal approach is to clean both sides of the jamón gradually, as you consume it. If you remove all the yellow fat and lard from the lean part, those areas will be exposed to the air and will begin to oxidize and turn rancid, forcing you to clean it again before cutting, which leads to waste. Only when the jamón is going to be consumed entirely at once, such as at a social event, should the whole piece be cleaned.
By thoroughly removing the rancid areas, your jamón will taste as it should—delicious.
Here’s an extra tip: don’t use the same knife for cleaning the jamón and for slicing it, as you might spread that undesirable flavor to the cutting surface. And if you’re someone who uses the jamón own fat to preserve the piece (which we don’t recommend), at least make sure it’s white fat, not the yellow, rancid fat you’ve discarded.
Why We Cure Jamón with the Skin On
The rancidity of the fat is one of the reasons we cure all our white jamón with the skin on. By preserving the pig’s skin, the fat is largely protected from oxygen. When you remove the skin at the time of consumption, the fat is perfectly White (or pink), edible, and flavorful, allowing you to choose the amount of fat you want on each slice.
This curing method also allows us to achieve long curing times and develop intense flavors and deep aromas, something difficult to achieve in the white jamón sector. Iberian jamón, with much more fat and a longer curing time, is salted traditionally, shaped in a V cut. In these jamones, you do need to remove the rancid fat to fully enjoy its true flavor.
Yes, we know, removing the rind can be a tedious task. That’s why, at the suggestion of a dear friend and jamón slicer, we published another article a few weeks ago that you might want to check out if you haven’t already (link provided).