At first glance, the process of making jamón as we do in Spain seems simple: we salt the pork leg, hang it up, and let it cure. However, during the time it takes for the magic to happen—turning raw meat into this prized delicacy—numerous biochemical processes occur. These processes are related both to the raw material (the pork leg) and to the other key ingredient, salt, as well as the careful control of time at each stage.
As in any discipline, the more you understand the process, the more complexities and solutions emerge. What once seemed simple evolves into something as complex as the rich aromas and flavors we achieve in the final jamón.
In this week’s post, we’ll attempt to summarize the approximately 2-year process involved in producing our white pork jamones, and up to 3 or 4 years for our Iberian jamones.
The Process of Making jamón: As Simple as It Is Complex
Everything begins with raising the pig. We often say that jamón is a “living product” because it is in constant evolution from the moment the pig is born until it is consumed. But also, as we commonly say in the industry, v is not like screws (I know, some screw manufacturers might say not all screws are the same, but you get the point). What we mean is that every jamón is unique. Even the two legs of the same pig, processed simultaneously, do not necessarily turn out the same. Each pig, even from the same litter, has its own characteristics, from unique genetic traits to diet and animal handling (not to mention the differences between farm-raised and free-range pigs).
Once the animal is slaughtered, factors such as the conditions in which this occurs, the skill in butchering, shaping (the way the jamón is prepared before salting), and how each piece is handled become important. Any irregularity in the butchering temperature, a poor knife cut, an impact on a hard surface that could separate the muscle fibers, or any deviation in the cold chain will affect the final product.
So, when a fresh jamón arrives at our facility, it already has characteristics that make it different from the others in its batch.
Classification, Salting, Washing, and Post-Salting
The first step in the drying room is classifying each jamón by weight, at least in our case. With some technologies, the jamones can also be classified by fat thickness and pH. At La Estrella del Jamón, we classify our jamones in one-kilogram ranges (from 12 to 15 kilograms when fresh) to determine how many days they will remain buried in salt. After labeling each jamón with a traceability code and its exact weight, we apply curing salt and bury them in sea salt in a chamber at temperatures below 3ºC and with relative humidity above 90%.
After the optimal number of days has passed, the jamones are washed with running water, shaped, and hung to begin the post-salting or resting phase. For the next 90 days, the jamones are kept in a chamber where the temperature is gradually increased from 2ºC to 6ºC, and the humidity is lowered from 90% to approximately 75-80%. During this phase, the salt starts to penetrate the jamón through diffusion, while water from the meat migrates to the surface through osmosis. This is a crucial process because we are still dealing with raw meat that, if not handled correctly, can be at high risk of bacterial contamination.
Drying, Lard Application, and Aging
After those 90 days of simulating winter, the jamones are moved to a forced drying room, where they are tempered up to 10ºC for about three months before entering the natural drying stage. Just before they are moved to drying rooms with open windows, we apply hardened pork lard to the surface of each jamón by hand. This step prevents air from entering the jamón through the small cracks that develop due to differences in contraction between the lean meat, fat, skin, and bone. The lard application is a vital step, as it protects the jamón from air, mold, and mites.
After about four months in the natural drying room (12 months since the jamones were salted), the jamones are removed and “painted” with a layer of liquid lard. This second layer helps maintain moisture and prevents excessive drying of the jamones surface.
Once the jamones have been coated with lard, they are moved to a natural cellar where temperature and humidity are carefully controlled by opening or closing the windows. This is the only tool we use in our facilities, the same technique that was traditionally used in homes where jamón was made, which we have reproduced and mastered.
In the cellar, the jamones will remain until completing the final curing stage, approximately 24 months from the time the salting process began. At this point, each jamón is individually selected based on its optimal curing point before being sent to our customers.
The Magic of Biochemistry
I’m not a chemistry expert, but I’ve learned a lot from attending congresses and courses. It never ceases to amaze me. That’s why I want to mention the biochemical process, which, although not something we can directly control, we can influence with our decisions.
Decisions like the raw materials we purchase, the number of days of salting, the post-salting period, the amount of lard we apply, and the time the jamones spend in the drying room and cellar.
It is the enzymes in the jamón muscles that perform the real magic. These enzymes break down the proteins in the muscles through a process known as proteolysis, turning them into cured jamón. During this process, proteins are broken down into amino acids which, if the curing is long enough, combine to form peptides, the key players in the final flavor and aroma.
Salt, in addition to drawing out moisture from the jamón and inhibiting bacterial growth, ensures that proteolytic enzymes work just enough to avoid over-degradation, achieving the ideal texture and contributing to that wonderful salty flavor of jamón.
In summary, the stages of jamón production include the pig’s upbringing, slaughter, butchering, shaping, classification, salting, washing, molding, post-salting, drying, two lard coatings, and aging—along with the biochemical processes that occur over two years of curing. It’s a process as simple as it is complex, filled with variables that make each jamón a unique piece, reflecting the time and care invested in it over the last two years.
this article is very useful, thank you for making a good article