The practice of curing jamón is deeply rooted and widespread in southeastern Europe. Both France and Portugal have their own products that result from this method of preserving fresh meat, but without a doubt, Italy and Spain are the leading representatives of cured jamón across the globe.
At first glance, there are many similarities between these products: Bayonne jamón, Portuguese presunto, Italian prosciutto, and Spanish cured jamón (whether from white pigs or Iberian pigs). All of them originated from the need to preserve meat during times when modern refrigeration systems did not exist. While they all come from the hind legs of pigs and undergo a salting and curing process, the final product has notable differences that make each one unique.
In today’s post, we will explore some of the differences (and more than a few similarities) between Spanish jamón and Italian prosciutto—the two great jamones of the world.
Let’s Start with the Name
It’s quite curious that, despite both languages (Italian and Spanish) coming from the same root, we use such different terms to describe a product that is so similar.
The Italians use the word prosciutto, which comes from the Latin term perexsuctum, literally meaning “dried,” and which led to the modern Italian word prosciugare (“to dry well”). On the other hand, the word jamón doesn’t refer to a characteristic of the product but rather to the part of the pig it comes from—the leg. Jamón originally derives from the Greek word kampé, which referred to the curvature of a limb, later evolving into the Latin term camba and subsequently into gamba (leg in Italian). In French, gamba transformed into jambe, and from French Romance, it made its way to Spain, first as jambon before finally becoming jamón in the 14th century.
The Raw Material
Italian prosciutto is always made from selected white pig breeds, whether it’s from Parma, Modena, or San Daniele. However, in Spain, we have two main types of jamón: the famous Iberian jamón and white pork jamón.
Iberian jamón jamón comes from a native breed of our peninsula, and although it shares the same species (Sus scrofa domestica) with the white pig, they are quite different. The Iberian pig has more fat and higher levels of myoglobin, which gives its jamón a unique, intense, and delicious flavor. Meanwhile, white pork jamón encompasses the rest of the jamones produced in Spain, from cured jamón to serrano jamón, including Trevélez jamón and the exquisite Teruel PDO jamón.
Thus, if we consider the raw material, prosciutto would be more similar to serrano jamón or Teruel jamón than to Iberian jamón.
Appearance
In Italy, as in Spain, there are jamones that retain the hoof and those that do not. For example, Parma jamón does not have the hoof, while San Daniele jamón does, similar to most white pork jamones produced in Spain, which usually keep it, compared to those made in the north, where it’s traditionally removed.
However, one key distinction in prosciutto that is not seen in Spanish jamón is the partial deboning of the fresh leg. In Italy, the coxal bone is removed, significantly altering the appearance of the piece and exposing the femur head, making it notably different from Spanish jamón. Additionally, the lean part of prosciutto is often covered with a mixture called suino, made of salt, pepper, lard, and sometimes a bit of ground rice, giving it a very distinctive look. In Spain, saín (the fat attached to the pig’s kidneys) and sunflower oil are generally used to hydrate and protect the pieces.
Production
On a broad level, the production process is quite similar. Starting with fresh meat, salt is applied for a few days, the jamón is washed, and then it is left to cure for some time. Perhaps the most significant difference is that, although prosciutto spends more time in salt, the amount of salt applied is lower—just enough to prevent spoilage and maintain a mild, almost sweet flavor.
Spanish jamón is literally buried in salt for a few days, which may explain why its flavor is stronger and more intense than that of Italian jamón. Moreover, during the curing months, Spanish jamón reaches higher temperatures in the drying room, allowing the fat to melt and integrate into the lean meat, giving it an extra punch that prosciutto lacks.
As for curing time, the difference isn’t drastic. For example, Teruel jamón (as a comparable reference in terms of raw material) requires a minimum curing period of 14 months, compared to Parma jamones 12 months, although in both cases, many pieces reach 24 or even 30 months of curing. However, the slightly higher weight of the fresh pieces (an average of 15 kilograms for Parma jamón compared to 13 kilograms for Teruel jamón) means that Parma jamón is generally more tender than Spanish jamón, given the similar curing time.
Flavor
Leaving Iberian jamón aside, since comparing two products made from different raw materials doesn’t seem logical, we must say that there isn’t a huge difference between Italian jamones and Spanish jamones. While it’s true that Spanish jamón is more intense, less juicy, and has a stronger cured flavor, there are jamones like our beloved Teruel jamón that, due to its production characteristics, resemble prosciutto more than other, saltier jamones.
Teruel jamón is also characterized by its low salt content, its delicacy on the palate, and its juiciness, combined with the distinctive cured flavor of Spanish jamones.
Our intention is not to categorize these products. As jamón artisans, we love that these traditional products remain deeply rooted in their regions and are part of each area’s cultural identity. All of them are magnificent products as long as they are made well. So, if you haven’t yet tried a good prosciutto or a good Spanish jamón, it’s time to do so.